SIMPLE PIONEER COSTUMING
Because you really can’t have a pioneer experience without dressing like a pioneer. The more authentic your clothing, the more you will understand the perspective of the pioneers. Fortunately, a fair amount of information is available on clothing and how to make a reasonably good “costume.” Below are ideas for both basic and more elaborate costuming for both males and females.
Cotton, cotton blends and wools are the best fabric selections.
Prints should be fairly small, and colors should be somewhat muted – tans and neutral colors were very common for eastern “store-bought” fabrics.
Unbleached muslin should be used rather than white cotton. Pure white and fine fabrics were usually limited to the rich.
Buttons from wood, dull brass, pewter or shell are most appropriate.
Early settlers did not usually purchase new clothing. They also traded from travelers.
Clothes don’t have to look new. They could be patched and well-worn as if they’d been worn for many weeks.
Easy, minimal costume
Long-sleeved button-front shirt, cotton or flannel
Modified trousers from a secondhand store. Try to find a “grandpa” kind of wool pants. No jeans, cargo pants, or any knit active wear pants
Vest. This was the style of the day and worn in cool weather
Braces to hold up the pants
Brimmed hat; felt or straw, but not “cowboy” style
Bandana or large neckerchief
Colder weather and desert nights will require vests and/or coats
More authentic, detailed costume
Workshirt: This online pattern has minimal instructions but is easy to figure out, or you can use Simplicity™ 4219
Pants: “Front fall” pants without a “fly” or pockets are most authentic. Try Butterick™ B3648
Suspenders: button down variety – no bright metal snaps or elastic if avoidable
Vest - You can trim down a wool suit jacket from a secondhand store, or you can sew one from a purchased pattern. Butterick™ 3721 has a couple of options. Wool is the best fabric to use, but other bottom-weight fabrics can work.
Avoid denim – bluejean fabric was not around in 1850
Easy, minimal costume
Long-sleeved cotton or cotton blend blouse purchased from a secondhand store
Full, gathered cotton skirt that falls mid-calf or below – but not to the ground
Pioneer bonnet (see below)
Pantaloons worn under skirt (pajama bottoms work)
Apron to wipe your hands on
Shawls and/or capes for cold weather and chilly nights
More authentic, detailed costume
Long cotton dress with
full skirt. Suggested patterns are McCall’s™ M4548, 3669, 9423.
NOTE: The M4548 pattern has all you need, including pantaloons, but I
suggest a different pattern for the bonnet since this one is not full enough
to work well or look authentic
Bonnet Suggested patterns: McCall’s™ 3669, 9423, or 2337. I would not recommend 2337 for a dress, as it is rather restrictive
Apron: Design your own, or use one of these patterns. McCall’s™ 2337, 3669, or M4548
Pantaloons. Modify some old pajama bottoms or McCall’s™ M4548
Simple
Pioneer Skirt with Elastic Waistband
(This requires about 3-3½ yards cotton fabric and 1½” elastic to fit your
waist.)
Run a measuring tape from your waist to the top of your shoe. Multiply this measurement by 3. That is the amount (in inches) you will use for your skirt. This is for 45” wide fabric.
Open the fabric to a single layer. Measure the widest part of your hips. Use this measurement to cut a 4” wide strip of this length from one salvage edge of the fabric. This will become your waistband.
Fold the fabric back in half. Cut it into three equal lengths. Use the narrower piece (from which you cut your waistband) for the skirt front.
Match the long edges of the skirt pieces, right sides together. Sew the three skirt pieces together in 5/8 inch seams. Iron them open.
Take the short ends of the waistband and match them up. Sew up one side 2”. Sew up the other side ½”, leaving you with a 1½” gap in the seam. Fold the waistband in half lengthwise, right sides together, and press. It should look like a waistband now. Divide the waistband into thirds and mark, using the waistband center back seam as one of the points. This will help you distribute the gathers on your skirt more evenly.
Gather the top of the skirt, using long basting stitches all the way around. Do a second row of stitching ¼” away from the first stitching.
Pin the skirt to the waistband (right sides together), matching the skirt seams to the marks on the waistband. Pull up the gathers to fit.
Stitch the skirt to the waistband.
Cut a piece of 1½” wide elastic to fit your waist. Slide it through the waistband and sew ends together.
Try on the skirt. Make sure it is mid-calf to ankle length. It should NOT touch the floor. If you make it too long, you will trip on it and it will kick up dust. Make about a 2” hem.